Some people seem to have a rather skewed vision on keeping fish. Usually they successfully set up a tank only to see it collapse in a matter of days, or they set it up, have to running and cycled, and "something happens" that ruins everything...
I have rules for my tanks that I think could be applicable to all tanks.
Rule #1: Get as big a fish tank as you can afford and/or fit in the space you've defined for a tank.
Trust me on this one. You will want a bigger tank later on. Most people who start out keeping fish want to keep more fish than they find possible with their tank, or larger fish than reasonable. That is understandable, some fish are just awesome that grow large or like to school in large groups! Also... here is a key I have for tank sizes...
TINY tanks: 1-6 gallons- Bettas, bettas, and only bettas is my rule. It is simply TOO MUCH trouble to keep multiple smaller fish in tanks this small. It can be done, but I do not deem it worth my time.
SMALL tanks: 6-10 gallons- Getting into the range where you can keep fish other than bettas. Small fish. Small tetras, wild bettas, guppies, danios, things of that nature. A single betta will also be SUPER happy in tanks of this size.
SMALL tanks take 2: 10-40 gallons- These tanks are still small, but could hold slightly larger/more fish than the first set of small tank sizes. Dawrf cichlids and gouramis do well in these tanks.
MEDIUM tanks: 40-100 gallons- YES. I include 50-100 gallon tanks in this category. Why? Because those are still not "large" tanks, and large as they may seem. I would honestly never put any "large tank" fish in this realm of tank size. (Oscars, Flowerhorns, Arowanna, etc...) because many of them are big waste producers and just do so much better in larger tanks. Medium tanks are well-suited to getting into african cichlids, especially in the higher size range, larger gouramis, multiple goldfish, and larger catfish occasionally (however they are also big waste producers) Also, more aggressive fish can live in tanks this size and usually have enough room to establish territories.
LARGE tanks: 100-400 gallons- A truly large tank this size will do just about anything for you successfully. And you will be grateful for the size in the long run. These tanks are very good for oscar-sized fish.
Any tank larger than 400 gallons I consider large take 2... REALLY suitable for just about anything.
Rule #2: Make sure you tank is properly cycled.
See my blog on cycling if you want all the info... The short version, however, is that a tank cannot be cycled until it has had some form on waste added to it. This can come in the form of fish or fish-less cycling.
Rule #3: Research your fish!
This is one of the most important things you could possibly do. Keep in mind that many fish you'll see in pet stores are young, and will grow larger than you see them. Some fish are simply NOT suitable for any fish tank, such as the pacu, which can grow to more than 4 feet long and like to school. There are also often nice small alternatives to larger fish. The common plecostomus (hypostomus plecostomus) can grow to well over 20 inches, but it's relative, the bristlenose pleco (ancistrus sp.) usually doesn't reach over 5 inches long, and tends to prefer algae more than the common pleco does.
Rule #4: Buy healthy looking stock.
Make sure the fish you buy looks good at point of purchase. Thinks to look out for that are most obvious: Uneven gill function, clamping, spazzy swimming, flashing constantly, ich, fin rot, uneven eye size, etc.
Rule #5: Avoid overstocking.
A very commonly used rule of thumb is "one inch of fish per gallon. This is typically thought to be a good rule, but flawed in some ways. I would never, for instance, fill a 20 gallon tank with 20 inches of a high-waste producing fish. Nor would I put on fish that grew to 20 inches in a 20 gallon tank. It's best simply to know about the fish you keep. How much waste they produce, and measure everything by ADULT size. Not how large they are when you buy them. Common sense is generally applicable as well.
Rule #6: NEVER clean out the entire tank all at once.
DO NOT deconstruct your entire tank for cleaning. It will disrupt the cycle that you worked so hard to establish in the first place. Beneficial bacteria covers everything in your tank, so it is wiser to clean out parts at a time, destroying only small colonies of the bacteria instead of all of it. This way the remaining bacteria can repopulate.
Rule #7: Avoid cleaning out every part of your filter at once.
Same idea as above. Your filter media is a breeding ground for beneficial bacteria. If you have multiple sponges, clean one a week when its time to clean your filter. You can also invest in two filters, and clean out one at a time while enjoying the extra filtration =)
Rule #8: Don't be too quick to medicate.
There will always be disease in your tank to some degree. It simply comes out of the faucet naturally. Fish get sick when they are stressed. They become more susceptible to illness because their immune systems become less efficient. Parasites usually come from external sources though. Because fish are so difficult to diagnose, I usually avoid using any medications at the first sign of illness. Isolate your sick fish in a quarantine tank if you can and keep an eye on it. Research it's symptoms and try to discern what's wrong. Also, try to find ways of curing fish without the use of medication. Medication often stresses fish out even more than the disease is, and can also result in death. For instance, whenever treating ich, I simply raise the temperature in the whole tank and add aquarium salt, if my fish can stand it.
Rule #9: Buy quality equipment.
This will save you in the long run. I realize that that filter may be 5 or 10 dollars more, but it is WORTH it. Trust me. Also, research your equipment if you are not sure of what to buy.
...Thats all I can think of at the moment.... Hope this is helpful =P
Monday, February 22, 2010
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Fish of the Month: Betta Splendens
Anyone who knows me knows that I LOVE betta's of all sorts. I find them to be one of the most characteristic and interesting fish out there, despite the fact that they're all over the place. In every fish store you should find at least 10 bettas for sale. If not, then I wouldn't think the store is even worth a visit.
That being said, betta's are quite possibly one of the most underappreciated and misunderstood fish anywhere. Consumer America tells us that they require little or no care, can live in any size container, and are obviously appealing to the eye.
Don't get me wrong, I myself keep my betta's in relatively small containers. They need more than just water, however, to truely thrive and be at their prettiest. One of the things people misfire on when setting up a betta tank is not including a heater into the mix. Betta's are tropical fish and do best in temperatures from 75-80 degree F. Mine only get heaters in the winter, since room temperature in the summer where I live is the right temperature for a betta. Without this heat, betta's can live, but they're a very slow-moving, listless fish when kept in colder waters.
Another thing people misfire on is choosing the way a tank looks over it's size. I've seen some VERY cool betta setups for sale out there, but some of them don't even add up to a gallon of water! Betta's can live in small containers like this, but they do enjoy more room to swim, and it takes more work on the owner's part top keep it clean. I like the regular 2.5 mini-tanks that almost every pet store chain sells. They look nice, are big enough, and are easy to clean.
Many 5 gallon setups are excellent for betta's as well, but some find the included filter's current to be too stressful. This depends entirely on the fish. Some betta's will ride the current for amusement, others are blown around haphazardly by it and can become too injured or stressed. EVERY betta is different.
As we all SHOULD know. Male betta's are to be kept alone or in a suitable community setup. They DO NOT get along with other males. And they DO NOT get along with other females. A casual betta keeper cannot hope to breed them, because breeding betta's takes much time a patience and a whole lot of staring at two fish, best left to the professionals. A male in a community fish tank can work, given that he isn't with any fish he may fight (I.E. gourami's, which are relatives, guppies, which have long fins, etc.) or any fish that will find enjoyment picking at the betta's fins (barbs, danios, fast aggressive fish)
Also, female bettas. Many people pass them up for males because "they're not as pretty." The only aesthetic difference between a male and female betta is fin length. Females can be just as colorful and vibrant as males.
In fact, one of my favorite fish to keep in a group are female betta's. Groups of females establish a hierarchy with each other and have small battles to prove who's the stronger fish. Keep in mind some females are more aggressive than others (in fact, if you're thinking a male would always win in a fight with a female, you're dead wrong) and may stress another female to the point of death. It's best to introduce your females all at once on neutral ground, or to rearrange tank decor when introducing a new member to the group.
I've heard all sorts of myths concerning betta's, one of the most popular being where they originate. Betta's do not live in puddles on the side of the road in Asia, you can't go out and scoop one up after a rainfall. They live in rice paddies and other such boggy, low oxygenated waters. Their territories are staked out as they are in captivity, by fighting. The difference here is that a betta can back down if need be. In a 20 gallon tank, males fight to the death because neither feels he can escape.
There are also other species of bettas than what you normally see in stores. Wild strains of betta's are becoming increasingly popular. Some are mouth brooders, unlike their bubble-nesting cousins. And many of them are just as beautiful as Spendens.
Spendens are the betta's you see everywhere. The air-breathing, bubble-nesting fish we all know and love. and withing this species there are many fin-types to choose from. The most common is veil-tail and crowntail. Halfmoons have fuller, more luxurious fins, plakats are shorter finned, there are halfmoon plakats, crowntail plakats.... The list goes on forever it seems. Aquabid.com has a section for each fin type, and that's worth checking out to be sure.
Speaking of Aqubid, let's talk about the difference between show-quality betta's and store bought. Show betta's are raised in the most pristine water conditions possible. And often when they are taken to a home where less water changes take place suffer under the new conditions. So, if you get a show-quality betta, make sure you give it more care than you would a normal one.
...That's all for now off the top of my head... If I left anything out or you have any questions, let me know!
That being said, betta's are quite possibly one of the most underappreciated and misunderstood fish anywhere. Consumer America tells us that they require little or no care, can live in any size container, and are obviously appealing to the eye.
Don't get me wrong, I myself keep my betta's in relatively small containers. They need more than just water, however, to truely thrive and be at their prettiest. One of the things people misfire on when setting up a betta tank is not including a heater into the mix. Betta's are tropical fish and do best in temperatures from 75-80 degree F. Mine only get heaters in the winter, since room temperature in the summer where I live is the right temperature for a betta. Without this heat, betta's can live, but they're a very slow-moving, listless fish when kept in colder waters.
Another thing people misfire on is choosing the way a tank looks over it's size. I've seen some VERY cool betta setups for sale out there, but some of them don't even add up to a gallon of water! Betta's can live in small containers like this, but they do enjoy more room to swim, and it takes more work on the owner's part top keep it clean. I like the regular 2.5 mini-tanks that almost every pet store chain sells. They look nice, are big enough, and are easy to clean.
Many 5 gallon setups are excellent for betta's as well, but some find the included filter's current to be too stressful. This depends entirely on the fish. Some betta's will ride the current for amusement, others are blown around haphazardly by it and can become too injured or stressed. EVERY betta is different.
As we all SHOULD know. Male betta's are to be kept alone or in a suitable community setup. They DO NOT get along with other males. And they DO NOT get along with other females. A casual betta keeper cannot hope to breed them, because breeding betta's takes much time a patience and a whole lot of staring at two fish, best left to the professionals. A male in a community fish tank can work, given that he isn't with any fish he may fight (I.E. gourami's, which are relatives, guppies, which have long fins, etc.) or any fish that will find enjoyment picking at the betta's fins (barbs, danios, fast aggressive fish)
Also, female bettas. Many people pass them up for males because "they're not as pretty." The only aesthetic difference between a male and female betta is fin length. Females can be just as colorful and vibrant as males.
In fact, one of my favorite fish to keep in a group are female betta's. Groups of females establish a hierarchy with each other and have small battles to prove who's the stronger fish. Keep in mind some females are more aggressive than others (in fact, if you're thinking a male would always win in a fight with a female, you're dead wrong) and may stress another female to the point of death. It's best to introduce your females all at once on neutral ground, or to rearrange tank decor when introducing a new member to the group.
I've heard all sorts of myths concerning betta's, one of the most popular being where they originate. Betta's do not live in puddles on the side of the road in Asia, you can't go out and scoop one up after a rainfall. They live in rice paddies and other such boggy, low oxygenated waters. Their territories are staked out as they are in captivity, by fighting. The difference here is that a betta can back down if need be. In a 20 gallon tank, males fight to the death because neither feels he can escape.
There are also other species of bettas than what you normally see in stores. Wild strains of betta's are becoming increasingly popular. Some are mouth brooders, unlike their bubble-nesting cousins. And many of them are just as beautiful as Spendens.
Spendens are the betta's you see everywhere. The air-breathing, bubble-nesting fish we all know and love. and withing this species there are many fin-types to choose from. The most common is veil-tail and crowntail. Halfmoons have fuller, more luxurious fins, plakats are shorter finned, there are halfmoon plakats, crowntail plakats.... The list goes on forever it seems. Aquabid.com has a section for each fin type, and that's worth checking out to be sure.
Speaking of Aqubid, let's talk about the difference between show-quality betta's and store bought. Show betta's are raised in the most pristine water conditions possible. And often when they are taken to a home where less water changes take place suffer under the new conditions. So, if you get a show-quality betta, make sure you give it more care than you would a normal one.
...That's all for now off the top of my head... If I left anything out or you have any questions, let me know!
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Why fish do not make good Christmas Gifts.
I love fish, but one of the last things I want to be receiving from someone as a gift would be a fish, or any animal for that matter. Many people wouldn't even consider this as a gift, but believe me, some do.
Betta's are probably one of the most victimized from gift-giving. They're cheap, accesible, and "Easy to care for." I put that in quotes because it's a pretty relative thing to say. Yes, a betta can get by in a tiny bowl with water only, but that is not the ideal life for them. Bettas who live successfully long lives usually have tanks weighing in at over a gallon, a heater, some level of stimulation, a good diet, and frequent water changes.
That's a lot to give a fish you received as a gift. Going out and buying the perfect betta home (sans betta) can easily cost you around $50-90, thanks Uncle Ted...
Aside from bettas, most fish-givers out there don't know what will get along in your tank if you have one. There are some people who truely think they can go out and buy a little goldfish to put in they're relative's tank. Just know that when you buy a fish for someone else, the chance that it will actually do well or get along with the fish they already have is slim to nothing. There are a thousand reasons that certain fish do not get along, trust me.
So if you're thinking of giving a fish for a gift, ask first what the recipient would like, or even if they would like one at all! Truthfully if someone handed me a betta and said "Merry Christmas!" I would feel a bit disgusted inside; another mouth to feed, thanks! =/
Betta's are probably one of the most victimized from gift-giving. They're cheap, accesible, and "Easy to care for." I put that in quotes because it's a pretty relative thing to say. Yes, a betta can get by in a tiny bowl with water only, but that is not the ideal life for them. Bettas who live successfully long lives usually have tanks weighing in at over a gallon, a heater, some level of stimulation, a good diet, and frequent water changes.
That's a lot to give a fish you received as a gift. Going out and buying the perfect betta home (sans betta) can easily cost you around $50-90, thanks Uncle Ted...
Aside from bettas, most fish-givers out there don't know what will get along in your tank if you have one. There are some people who truely think they can go out and buy a little goldfish to put in they're relative's tank. Just know that when you buy a fish for someone else, the chance that it will actually do well or get along with the fish they already have is slim to nothing. There are a thousand reasons that certain fish do not get along, trust me.
So if you're thinking of giving a fish for a gift, ask first what the recipient would like, or even if they would like one at all! Truthfully if someone handed me a betta and said "Merry Christmas!" I would feel a bit disgusted inside; another mouth to feed, thanks! =/
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle
For my first real post, I'm going to talk a little bit about cycling aquariums. Not only the cycle of a new tank itself, but the basics of getting a tank set up and ready to house fish in it's water.
It's happened to many people, they go to a pet store fully expecting to leave with they're tank, equipment, decor, and an entire stock of random fish that day. They get there, however, to find that it's not that simple! The store assistant tells them "you have to let the tank 'cycle' first." What that means, the customer is completely clueless, and usually they get little or no further explanation. "Cycling" is a term that I've seen thrown around quite loosely, what it should refer to is the nitrogen cycle, but what it sometimes refers to is simply the settling of the water in your tank over the course of a few days.
And there are reasons for that. 1- No one wants to wait two weeks to get fish. They want their tank to be beautiful and stocked NOW. (don't we all?) and 2- You need fish or some other form of waste in a tank to REALLY start the cycle.
Allow me to explain.
When most people first set up a tank, they used water straight from the tap treated with water conditioner. If not that, other people use rain water or Reverse Osmosis (R.O.) water, both of which come with their own inherent issues and advantages. For now, let's assume it's tap water. When water come out of your faucet, it is a certain pH and hardness. If you let it sit or "settle" over time, that original pH and hardness will change. Proof? Leave a glass of water out overnight, then take a sip the next day. It tastes different, most people think it's stale, but it's really just altered a bit chemically.
That is the reason you let your tank sit with a filter running for a few days. You don't want to put fish into a new tank that is going to change pH drastically in a matter of hours. It's way too stressful for them and usually results in death or illness. Remember that there are many fish illnesses already in your tap water, and becoming stressed out is the thing that makes fish susceptible to them.
Now, you've had your tank sitiing and filter running a few days. What's next? Fish?! Maybe, it depends on how you want to tackle the cycling issue. Cycling is all about the beneficial bacteria you want to establish, and in order for them to develop in your tank you're going to need to introduce waste. Some people cycle their tank with no fish, instead they put fish food into the tank and let it rot away, creating waste. Waste creates ammonia, which is the first step in an aquarium's cycle. Others use straight ammonia from a bottle and carefully monitor how much goes into the tank over a period of time, another way of cycling with no fish introduced.
I've never attempted any form of fishless cycling, so I'm probably the wrong person to ask about it. I have always picked a hardy species of fish (preferably one I plan on keeping once the tank is cycled) and added just a few of them. You can also supplement with a product called "Tetra Safestart," it introduces the beneficial bacteria to the tank from the start, and makes the cycling process faster and safer for the fish.
What I've found is this; fish are okay in a cycling tank as long as the following conditions are present...
1- No more fish are added during the cycling process
2- The changes happening in the water are slow, this will happen if no other fish are added in the process
3- The fish you cycle with are hardy and healthy
Alright, we've covered how you cycle, but what should you look for while your tank cycles? I can answer that too...
When waste is introduced into your tank in any form, it breaks down and creates ammonia. Ammonia is unsafe for fish, and can cause sickness and death in many cases. It is undesirable in any amount in any aquarium, obviously, but as I stated above, as long as the cycle is done slowly and steadily, any fish present in the cycle will be able to take the ammonia. That change in the water will be slow and consistent, and if you use a product like Safestart, the levels of ammonia you see will be lower.
So you will see the ammonia levels in your tank rise, as you should be testing the water periodically during the cycle. Once that happens, bacteria called nitrosomas will form in your tank and oxidize (eat) the ammonia, the waste created from this oxidizing will form nitrites. You'll see the ammonia in your water tests going down, and nitrites going up.
Soon after that, a new bacteria will develop and convert the nitrites in your tank into nitrates. The names of the two are very similar, but the effects they have on fish are very different. Think of nitrites as the evil twin of nitrates, at any level they will harm fish, but nitrates are safe at lower levels which are easily maintainable. You'll always have nitrates in your tank to some degree, and once your nitrates are gone and nitrates have appeared in your water tests, your tank is cycled!
"Now Luci," you say "this is an awful lot to remember... And how long does it take?? It seems aquariums are just a big waiting game!" Well, yes, they are. At least your not waiting for bonsai trees to grow though, that takes forever! Fish do take time, and if you take the time to allow your tank to cycle and your fish to settle, you will have many less problems than if you are not patient. Trust me! I've learned all of this the hard way! It's much more trouble and MUCH more money if you don't wait.
That being said, cycling typically takes about 2 weeks to a month. Depends on the fish you use to cycle, the size of the tank, and pretty much everything else. I cycled my 70 gallon with 5 female bettas, and it took about a month or so. Not to bad, eh? (You're probably saying "YES! A MONTH IS A LONG TIME!!" hehe)
The simple version is this, let your tank sit a few days, add a minimal amount of hardy fish (preferably a species you would like to keep after you cycle), wait for nitrites to go away in your water tests and for nitrates to show up, BAM! cycled.
And what do you do after that? Start stocking of course! Add a few fish at a time so you don't upset the balance you've worked so hard for, and start doing water changes if you haven't already. How many water changes and the amount of water you change is all about how many fish you have. The less you have the easier it is, also the bigger your tank the easier it is. I change my 70 gallon every other day about 20-40%, that's because I have discus and they're very sensitive fish. Most people can get away with water changes every few weeks to a month.
That's all for now guys, hope this helps anyone who might have been confused, or if not it might have confused you even more! If I left anything out or you think I got something wrong, feel free to let me know!
It's happened to many people, they go to a pet store fully expecting to leave with they're tank, equipment, decor, and an entire stock of random fish that day. They get there, however, to find that it's not that simple! The store assistant tells them "you have to let the tank 'cycle' first." What that means, the customer is completely clueless, and usually they get little or no further explanation. "Cycling" is a term that I've seen thrown around quite loosely, what it should refer to is the nitrogen cycle, but what it sometimes refers to is simply the settling of the water in your tank over the course of a few days.
And there are reasons for that. 1- No one wants to wait two weeks to get fish. They want their tank to be beautiful and stocked NOW. (don't we all?) and 2- You need fish or some other form of waste in a tank to REALLY start the cycle.
Allow me to explain.
When most people first set up a tank, they used water straight from the tap treated with water conditioner. If not that, other people use rain water or Reverse Osmosis (R.O.) water, both of which come with their own inherent issues and advantages. For now, let's assume it's tap water. When water come out of your faucet, it is a certain pH and hardness. If you let it sit or "settle" over time, that original pH and hardness will change. Proof? Leave a glass of water out overnight, then take a sip the next day. It tastes different, most people think it's stale, but it's really just altered a bit chemically.
That is the reason you let your tank sit with a filter running for a few days. You don't want to put fish into a new tank that is going to change pH drastically in a matter of hours. It's way too stressful for them and usually results in death or illness. Remember that there are many fish illnesses already in your tap water, and becoming stressed out is the thing that makes fish susceptible to them.
Now, you've had your tank sitiing and filter running a few days. What's next? Fish?! Maybe, it depends on how you want to tackle the cycling issue. Cycling is all about the beneficial bacteria you want to establish, and in order for them to develop in your tank you're going to need to introduce waste. Some people cycle their tank with no fish, instead they put fish food into the tank and let it rot away, creating waste. Waste creates ammonia, which is the first step in an aquarium's cycle. Others use straight ammonia from a bottle and carefully monitor how much goes into the tank over a period of time, another way of cycling with no fish introduced.
I've never attempted any form of fishless cycling, so I'm probably the wrong person to ask about it. I have always picked a hardy species of fish (preferably one I plan on keeping once the tank is cycled) and added just a few of them. You can also supplement with a product called "Tetra Safestart," it introduces the beneficial bacteria to the tank from the start, and makes the cycling process faster and safer for the fish.
What I've found is this; fish are okay in a cycling tank as long as the following conditions are present...
1- No more fish are added during the cycling process
2- The changes happening in the water are slow, this will happen if no other fish are added in the process
3- The fish you cycle with are hardy and healthy
Alright, we've covered how you cycle, but what should you look for while your tank cycles? I can answer that too...
When waste is introduced into your tank in any form, it breaks down and creates ammonia. Ammonia is unsafe for fish, and can cause sickness and death in many cases. It is undesirable in any amount in any aquarium, obviously, but as I stated above, as long as the cycle is done slowly and steadily, any fish present in the cycle will be able to take the ammonia. That change in the water will be slow and consistent, and if you use a product like Safestart, the levels of ammonia you see will be lower.
So you will see the ammonia levels in your tank rise, as you should be testing the water periodically during the cycle. Once that happens, bacteria called nitrosomas will form in your tank and oxidize (eat) the ammonia, the waste created from this oxidizing will form nitrites. You'll see the ammonia in your water tests going down, and nitrites going up.
Soon after that, a new bacteria will develop and convert the nitrites in your tank into nitrates. The names of the two are very similar, but the effects they have on fish are very different. Think of nitrites as the evil twin of nitrates, at any level they will harm fish, but nitrates are safe at lower levels which are easily maintainable. You'll always have nitrates in your tank to some degree, and once your nitrates are gone and nitrates have appeared in your water tests, your tank is cycled!
"Now Luci," you say "this is an awful lot to remember... And how long does it take?? It seems aquariums are just a big waiting game!" Well, yes, they are. At least your not waiting for bonsai trees to grow though, that takes forever! Fish do take time, and if you take the time to allow your tank to cycle and your fish to settle, you will have many less problems than if you are not patient. Trust me! I've learned all of this the hard way! It's much more trouble and MUCH more money if you don't wait.
That being said, cycling typically takes about 2 weeks to a month. Depends on the fish you use to cycle, the size of the tank, and pretty much everything else. I cycled my 70 gallon with 5 female bettas, and it took about a month or so. Not to bad, eh? (You're probably saying "YES! A MONTH IS A LONG TIME!!" hehe)
The simple version is this, let your tank sit a few days, add a minimal amount of hardy fish (preferably a species you would like to keep after you cycle), wait for nitrites to go away in your water tests and for nitrates to show up, BAM! cycled.
And what do you do after that? Start stocking of course! Add a few fish at a time so you don't upset the balance you've worked so hard for, and start doing water changes if you haven't already. How many water changes and the amount of water you change is all about how many fish you have. The less you have the easier it is, also the bigger your tank the easier it is. I change my 70 gallon every other day about 20-40%, that's because I have discus and they're very sensitive fish. Most people can get away with water changes every few weeks to a month.
That's all for now guys, hope this helps anyone who might have been confused, or if not it might have confused you even more! If I left anything out or you think I got something wrong, feel free to let me know!
First Post
Alright guys, I've been kicking around the idea of doing a video-blog on fish, but since I usually find Vlogs rather boring I'm going to do this instead! I don't want anyone getting sick of lookin' at my mug all the time!!
So I will update weekly (hopefully) with different "Articles" on fish. Focusing on maintenence, care, some specific setups that are possible, good equipment, and occasionally specific species of fish!
Stayed tuned!
So I will update weekly (hopefully) with different "Articles" on fish. Focusing on maintenence, care, some specific setups that are possible, good equipment, and occasionally specific species of fish!
Stayed tuned!
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